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07.03.2023 2023 AsiaVietnam

On two wheels across Vietnam. Part 2

The adventures in Vietnam continue!

Chapter 7: Hue to Hoyang

The ancient capital of Vietnam, the city of Hue, we left today after a morning tour of the imperial palace, which was not particularly impressive. The citadel is a city surrounded by a wall with several gates and a moat with water, inside there is another complex - the residence of the emperor, tombs, pagodas, gardens, cannons... Of course, we lack knowledge of the history of Vietnam, without it all these historical structures are just wordless stones and ruins.

Changing of the guard at the entrance to the imperial palace.

However, the modern fairy-tale city above the clouds on top of Mount Bana (15.995133, 107.996302) was unexpectedly striking in its scope! We got there by chance, we went to see the famous Golden Bridge, which is held by two giant hands, and found ourselves in a fairy tale! Castles, incredible beauty gardens and ponds with large colorful fish, Buddhist temples, all sorts of attractions, hotels and restaurants - all this is real almost in heaven! At any rate, the clouds were below.



You have to spend a whole day here to see everything, but it's worth it.

 

People in holiday outfits look very pretty!

Walking back and forth across the Golden Bridge, I'd give the designer the Ho Chi Minh Prize. Or whatever their most prestigious award is.


After going down in a comfortable cable car cabin we drove further along the sea. Huge endless beaches, countless old fishing boats on the shoals against the background of skyscrapers of the million-strong city of Danang with fashionable hotels along the coast - this is also Vietnam. Here socialism with an incredible abundance of red flags and banners along the roads and streets gets along fine with the human face of advanced capitalism. So there you go!

The fishermen are probably on vacation, too. Or they're out of fish.

 

Golden Buddha and red flags.

 

Chapter 8: Hoi Yang to Nha Trang

Along the coast of the South China Sea we head south to our final destination, the capital Ho Chi Minh City.
Another small but very colorful town on our way was Hoi Yang, where we stopped for the night. The weather this day was unlucky, in the morning there was a strong wind and incessant rain, and my bike without a windshield is not the best way to travel in this situation.
Hoi Yang is a city with a rich historical past reflected in its buildings and culture, and it is also under UNESCO protection.
Cozy pedestrian streets with old Japanese and Chinese houses, fishing boats at the pier, souvenir stores, exhibitions of street artists, bicycle rickshaws, slowly taking tourists, girls in beautiful, festive dresses, Buddhist temples and obligatory red flags with sickle and hammer - all this creates a very harmonious picture of a cozy, provincial town, which is very pleasant to walk around for several hours.
There are old houses where people still live, there are stores and cafes. And on these boats you can take a ride for a small fee.

Vietnamese street parties. And we don't feel very comfortable on these low tables.

Old Japanese covered bridge. (15.877167, 108.326016)


After the walk you can go to one of the massage parlors, where nice girls will offer you a chic massage feet, body, head and ... everything. ))

Chapter 9: Nha Trang-Dalat

We trickled through streams of cars and scooters through the streets of Nha Trang, a fashionable resort city with skyscraper hotels and a huge swanky beach, and reached our small, 20-story hotel in the center of the city.
Nha Trang is a tourist mecca for travelers from Russia coming to Vietnam. There are a lot of ads, menus in restaurants are in Russian and in some places the staff speaks a little English-Russian with a Vietnamese accent. Here for the first time during our trip we saw famous restaurants like Macdonalds, KFS and others, as well as Starbucks with rather poor choice of food for some reason.
Nha Trang's waterfront. We did not see anyone wishing to sunbathe. We could not swim in the sea because of the stormy weather and huge waves, so the next morning we set off inland.

Nha Trang is a very cool tourist metropolis.

The road to Dalat is very beautiful, with many viewpoints, waterfalls, rocks.

And again, mountain serpentines, foggy pass, rain and finish in the crazy city of Dalat. Why crazy?
First of all, there is an attraction here, which is called Crazy House, and secondly, the traffic here is so dense, worse than in Hanoi.

An unusual attraction in the city of Dalat in southern Vietnam - Crazy House..


We also found ourselves at the enormous Cherkizovsky market of the 1990s in the center of the city, where thousands of people buy and sell everything in sight, eat here, ride scooters between the rows of stores, pulling huge carts with tons of designer items from GUCCI, Louis Vuitton, and other Adidas.

 


And in the center of Dalat is a large lake with white swans - boats and the Eiffel Tower, almost like in Paris, well maybe a little lower.
It's a colorful city, though!

Chapter 10: Dalat-Fanhiet

Have you ever tried coffee made from poop?
We had a cup of this "divine" beverage today. On the way from Dalat to the seashore, we stopped at the plantations of a large coffee company, Me Linh. (11.898602, 108.347841)

Vietnam turns out to be quite a serious coffee producer, second in the world after Brazil in terms of exports, which was news to me.
A little tour of the grounds with a visit to a separate "workshop" where small animals (here they are called Weasel or Wiseau) naturally produce the most expensive elite coffee was quite informative.
This method is common in many coffee-producing countries and is better known as Luwak, and the marten- or ferret-like animals are called musangs.
To be honest, I'm not a connoisseur of this drink and I can't describe its aromatic and other advantages compared to other varieties.

There's something about a high-end coffee producer that's no fun today.

In general, today was a very interesting mountain path with hundreds of turns and beautiful views. One of the notable places is great waterfall Pongur (11.688513, 108.266833), only pity that there is not much water in it now, dry season.

Another unexpected sight by the road is two ZIL-131 cars. And the impression is that they are still "running".


A Komsomol wedding. What else could there be in socialist Vietnam? ))

Сегодня разменяли четвертую тысячу по Вьетнаму, завтра прибываем в конечную точку нашего мотопутешествия — Хошимин.

Chapter 11: Ho Chi Minh City

In the south of Vietnam it's over 30 degrees. And two weeks ago we were freezing in the mountains of Laocaye on the border with China. The weather, people, and nature are so different in North and South Vietnam.

Ho Chi Minh City, aka Saigon, until 1975, the largest city in the country, renamed in honor of the founder of modern Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh, who looks at us from all the posters, banners and monuments with his hand outstretched forward to show the way to a bright future, where Vietnam seems to be moving with steady strides under the leadership of the Communist Party. And this is indeed the case.

Ho Chi Minh City is a huge metropolis, comparable to Moscow in area and population. In the center there are skyscrapers of glass and metal, fashionable hotels, shopping centers with boutiques of the world's most famous brands, expensive restaurants and cars, the lights of modern advertising. Walking along the local Arbat, I forgot for a while that I was in a socialist country. In this respect, Vietnam is more like China, where the freedom of entrepreneurship and business successfully coexists with the leading and guiding role of the party.

The center of Ho Chi Minh City is covered in lights and advertisements.

These are the kind of girls you can meet on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City. ))

The Vietnamese take great care of their iron-plastic horses. They are always clean, beautiful and shiny.



The construction of modern highways, interchanges, bridges, new districts and even cities is in full swing.
Of course, we are still a long way from South Korea, let alone Japan or Singapore, but the dynamics are very serious.

On the outskirts of the city and along the banks of the river you can still find slums where people live. But they are quickly disappearing.

Final Chapter

So, our journey of 15 days and 3,450 km has come to a conclusion.
The motorcycles were handed in and were taken over by the cheerful girl Fiona from Adrenalin Ruch in Ho Chi Minh City. Another couple of days wandered through the mangrove forests, feed crocodiles, ride a boat on the Mekong River, visited a very old Buddhist monastery and with a sense of deep satisfaction leave this wonderful country. ))

What will Vietnam be remembered for?
  • The first is people. Very friendly, open and smiling, always ready to help. In half a month there was not a single negative moment related to communication with the locals. That's great! A little difficulty in communication, because 99 out of 100 do not speak any language except Vietnamese. But sign language and a sincere desire to understand each other helped us out as always. And Vietnamese children are the most sociable in the world!

  • The second is rich, varied nature. The mountains are cool and rainy in the north, and hot and dry in the south. The mountains, beautiful waterfalls, the sea, beautiful beaches, Halong Bay is one of the wonders of the world - you can come to Vietnam for this.


  • Third - pretty developed infrastructure. Good roads, nice clean hotels for all tastes and wallets, delicious local food, which suits us very well.
In general, the country is big, interesting, there are places to travel and things to see.
Of course, not everything is as great as we would like it to be, there is a fly in the ointment, so to speak.
There is a lot of trash on the roadsides, streets, rivers, and almost everywhere, except maybe in some tourist areas. As our guide said yesterday, for the Vietnamese, roads and rivers are garbage and dumpsters, unlike their homes and rice paddies. More than once I saw empty cigarette packets, bags and other trash flying out of the window of the car ahead. Vietnam, of course, is not India, but it is not Japan or Singapore in terms of cleanliness.

Another minus is the traffic on the roads. Worse I have seen only in Iran. Traffic is very congested and there are practically no traffic rules as we understand them. It is absolutely normal if someone drives across the lane, across, on the sidewalk, or the way he wants. And all participants of the traffic react absolutely calmly to all these moments.

There are 100 million people in Vietnam and the population density is such that if Russia had as many people per square kilometer as here, the population of Russia would be over 5 billion! And everyone has a scooter.
On the other hand, what would happen if they all rode cars instead of mopeds?

Another plus is a lot of gas stations, sometimes at one kilometer there are several, so it is almost impossible to stay with "dried" tank.minus - at these gas stations you can not have a cup of coffee and a croissant, it's just gas stations. And in general, there are almost no such complexes with cafes, stores and other amenities, which we are used to. And there are no decent, as we understand, cafes and restaurants, even McDonald's and KFC on our way. But there is a lot of street food cooked right by the road or on the sidewalk, which is popular among the Vietnamese.

There are very few beggars and homeless people, unlike in India or Africa, or Europe today. No one is pestered with an outstretched hand, no homeless children begging for a dollar with a sorrowful expression on their faces.
There was no problem with safety either, we safely left things on the bikes in busy areas while we walked around and saw the sights.
Motorcycle tourism in Vietnam is not developed at all. During the whole time we met only two similar travelers on heavy motorcycles, so the rental prices are very high. So my Triumph Scrambler (not the best option for long trips) cost $145 per day.
But the brightest and most unforgettable experience of the trip was definitely worth it!
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